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I had visited the previous Sunday, with my Jack Russell in tow and 15 minutes prior to kitchen closing cut off time. Cheeky, I know.
The deck was seated to capacity with elegent diners and enthusiastic foodies. The Maitre'D suggested we settle for a cheese board on the lawn and a light-hearted sampling of 6 wines in the tasting room. I made it my point to return again while my indulgence intentions and interest were still fresh and rampant. I was back at lunch, the very next day. Early on a Monday so I wasn't surprised by the huge contrast of a full restaurant on one day and it being empty the next.
Okay, besides a tame party of two in the corner who's conversation decibel level raised occasionally and ever so slightly just enough for me to ascertain they were French.
Despite it being quiet, the atmosphere is warm and welcoming. There is a simplicity to the decor and functional layout of the restaurant. The kitchen is open plan and faces the panorama of neighbouring farms and mountains. There is no attempt to over accessorize the dining experience. The focus falls solely onto the food delivered with a high standard of service. This is an approach I appreciate. It seems honest, devoid the stiffness and artificial austere air that fine dining establishments stink of. This is a touch of class without being pompous.
I sat inside watching a howling wind and grey skies outside. My table was a perfect vantage point to watch the bustling energy of the kitchen as well as take in the garden vineyards of De Morgenzon Wine Estate next door which came alive with movement of wind whipping through the vineyards and rows of wild flowers.
I had tasted the Jordan Barrel Fermented Chardonnay 2008 on my previous visit, I found it had a gorgeous and enticing complexity that demanded some food.
Bright green lime,
stoney mineral character
and a buttery
lingering
mouthfeel.
A friendly waiter called me M'am and served me an assemblage of breads. Parsnip chips, a Poppy Seed Twist of Bread and a tiny well of Aioli (A sort of garlic/olive oil mayonnaise). My glass of wine followed shortly - Impeccable timing!
This photograph has been shamelessly copied and pasted from Chris von Ulmenstein's blog, I see she has also lunched at Jordan.
There's something almost biblical about breaking bread and drinking wine. I hoped there was fish on the menu. This could be my act of repent, for the sacrilege of arriving barefoot with my Jack Russell the day before.
I decided on the R200 for two dishes option, and with another sip of my Barrel Fermented Chardy, I embarked on the bread board. The side plate provided is a another artwork in its own right - A rustic, heavy and square ceramic plate. Nice balance to everything else that felt so sleight and dainty.
When dining out , I always order my food after having decided on the wine I will be drinking. A form follows function way of thinking. I usually also eat dessert first, then have my starter and my main. Espresso or anything pastry, chocolate,fruit filled to finish. Today was a 2 course affair however.
I chose what I think is the most complimentary pairing for a Barrrel Fermented Chardonnay. Spring sugar snap peas, pea puree, goats cheese, pancetta, nasturtium and prune. Followed by Barrel smoked line caught hake with a fricassee of chorizo, broad beans, calamari and spinach.
Because it is not an overly oaked infusion the subtle lime and pear flavours of Chardonnay are not lost. I found them ever more prevalent after tasting the broth in which the Hake was served. The texture of the Hake was incredible, As if I was prying a secret out of it, I gently dug my fork into the fillet and it flaked in perfectly cooked peices. As if I could have expected anything less. It was perched on a bed of spinach that floated in a seemingly Thai inspired broth, it was zesty and clean. The chorico added some salty meatiness to the dish which I enjoyed - sometimes hake can be insipid.
The nasturtium salad was so intricate in presentation and flavour, a puree of peas sat neatly on my plate, teamed with the Gorgonzola, I was in textural and taste utopia. Nutty mid palate richness that was lifted by the greens of the salad, and balanced by the gentle acidity of the wine. I would have liked to stand up and 'wooped' over at George but I thought rather not, the French twosome might not appreciate an outburst of appreciation.
The wine list is delightful, each page features quotes and quips about wine, little pieces of philosophy that are quite endearing. I was spotted scribbling in my diary , the Maitre D offered to email the wine list and menu to me after I explained I was doing a personal review and actually enjoyed my handwritten archive of metaphors and notes. He took my details anyway and both menu and wine list were awaiting me in my inbox later that day.
I was most impressed with the personal service, Upon arrival I mentioned I had only 60 minutes for my lunch. My courses were not rushed and my bill arrived as if they had been watching the clock for me. I was off to my next meeting without adding stress to my schedule. I finished my last sip of wine glancing over at George Jardine operate in his kitchen, it was performance art. He's so involved in his craft, Im not bothered by the fact he hasn't ventured out to his diners for the faux P.R I'm used to seeing. I feel the excellence of his dishes spoke to me far better than a conversation could. A true artists work speaks of its creator. I left thanking my waiter and host for what they added to my dining experience at Jordan Restaurant.
Jordan Restaurant with George Jardine, Jordan Winery, Stellenbosch Kloof Road, Stellenbosch. Tel (021) 881-3612. www.jordanrestaurant.co.za and www.jordanwines.com. Open for lunch Wednesdays - Sundays, and on Thursday and Friday evenings for dinner.
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